跨界联合,终止性别暴力

黑人大码模特被骂太丑,女性内衣广告到底给谁看?
19

黑人大码模特被骂太丑,女性内衣广告到底给谁看?

29 六月 2020 - 11:06

近日,知名时装品牌Calvin Klein签下模特雅里·琼斯(Jari Jones),并用她替换下超模杜晨·科洛斯(Doutzen Kroes)的海报,这一消息引起了广泛的关注和争议。

网友拿11年前的CK广告牌做对比/ 左:杜晨·科洛斯;右:雅里·琼斯

显然,引起争议的主要原因在于,琼斯不是一位符合传统审美的内衣模特,她是一位跨性别黑人女性,身材魁梧,长相也不是一眼让人觉得是“美女”的类型。

6月23日,琼斯在Ins上写下了自己的心情:

“能够呈现最真实的自我和完整的身体形象,让我感到荣幸和开心。这个身体经常被妖魔化,被骚扰,让人觉得丑陋不堪,很多人甚至诅咒我应当被杀害。”

 

虽然我们最常在荧幕上见到的,还是苗条女性的形象,但近些年来,在国外已经出现了一股BBW潮流(big beautiful women,“大码美女”),女性模特的身材也开始更多样化。

对于琼斯代言CK,支持的网友大多认为,应该尊重女孩身材的多样性,每个人都是平等的。可也有许多人抱有强烈的不满,他们表示“无法欣赏这种审美”,感到“不适”甚至“恶心”。国内微博上,琼斯被一些博主称为史上最“政治正确”模特。

 

当内衣这一私人物品进入公共空间的大屏幕时,内衣本身的功能性似乎不重要了。很少有人会讨论内衣本身是否好穿,值得购买,更多的人看到的是身着内衣的女性身体。

而当这位女性模特不符合一贯的认知形象时,她就成为了猎奇和攻击的对象。

 

内衣与女性身体

 

内衣为谁而穿呢?

这似乎是一个再简单不过的问题,作为女性用品的内衣,当然应该服务于女性。

可是在很长一段时间内,内衣却成为取悦男性、束缚女性的工具。

西方曾流行过紧身束腰胸衣,饱满的胸部、纤细的腰肢与下半身膨大的裙子对比,凸显了女性身体的曲线。而许多现代医学研究表明,这些束缚腰部的胸衣会危害女性身体健康,如影响肺功能、神经、消化等。

束腰对内脏的压迫 图/Valencian Museum of Ethnology

现代内衣出现之后,仍然有许多设计与“性感”符号相连。聚拢、调整、塑形等五花八门的内衣,指向的都是对饱满胸部的追求,无论如何挤出一个挺拔的大胸就对了。

可实际情况是,正常健康的胸部也不能是聚拢的呀。

想想炎热夏天下,金属钢圈在身体上留下道道红印,汗水浸湿厚厚的罩杯垫,被勒得浑身难受,只能到卫生间里解开内衣稍微放松一下……

显然,这样的内衣并不能满足女性的需求,于是一些舒适的、倡导健康自然的内衣开始受到关注。此外,还出现了专门针对小胸的内衣品牌。无胸罩(No Bra)运动更是倡导摆脱内衣,解放女性胸部。

女性通过点燃胸罩,来象征摆脱束缚 图/tumblr

对内衣舒适度的追求,也意味着女性对自我身体的掌控意识,重要的不是我能不能满足你的审美需求,而是我的身体最主观的感受

但舒适度这一标准,仍然常常在模特身上被抹去。可为什么内衣模特就该是“性感”和“美丽”的?

我们会发现,在琼斯代言的新闻下,很多男性表达了自己强烈的不适感。

可是,他们不穿女性内衣啊!

 

也许这些男性并没有意识到,琼斯作为模特展示的是女性的贴身物品。他们仅觉得应该看到的,是符合他们审美标准的女性身体,而琼斯显然与他们的期望不符合。

但是,对于真正的购买者而言,最想要看到的难道不是最真实的效果?琼斯在广告中展示出的舒展感,难道不才是最大的卖点吗

你们看到了无数位又高又瘦,有着姣好面容的女性模特,许多身材已经“完美”到脱离正常人群,你们没有说话;可是当一位不符合此类标准的女模特出现时,你们却开始怀疑,这个世界是不是疯了。

 

内衣广告究竟要怎么“美”?

 

有人说,这真的不美啊。

但“美”的标准应该是什么呢?被商家摆在台面上的那些模特,她们拥有“性感”“苗条”“优雅”的女性气质,还有一张张无瑕的脸。是美的,但对这种美的推崇却造就了美的单一化。

女性的身体遭到了太多评头论足,是否够瘦够白,是否曲线明显。女性的身体被赋予了诸如青春、阴柔、魅惑的内涵,呈现的是与阳刚气质相对的更柔和的美。

这种“美”,是基于男性为主导的审美产生的,并在男女共同的合力下达成了主流审美标准。

“你不是一个草图” 图/Pacific Standard

仔细想想,内衣这一功能性产品,为什么会在模特的美丑上引起争论?

因为广告、大荧幕、舞台等这类具有感官刺激性的图像,进入到我们的生活中后,在更为清晰地展示着女性的身体。而裸露的女性形象,相较于男性往往更多,她们被认为应该具有无瑕的外在,同时还得性感得足以满足男性的欲望。

维密广告定义的“完美身材”

我们通过时尚、广告、大众文化对女性身体进行凝视,女性也进行自我凝视,追求标准化的美。就如法国哲学家鲍德里亚所说,“通过一系列围绕着这些活动所进行的各种现身秀和肉体表演,身体变成了仪式的客体”。

无论是男性还是女性,我们处于这个社会中,并不断赋予身体以新的内涵与符号,在不同的时代背景中,我们赋予“美”以不同的定义。

在大荧幕中出现的多样化的女性身体,不同于过往整齐划一的白瘦高的女性形象,被认为丑,其实也是对传统女性美的解构与重新定义。

 

身体标准背后的“优劣划分”

 

当我们以刻板标准来看待女性身体,来要求荧幕上的女性内衣模特时,我们实际上也在传达一种身体具有优劣等级的意识。

维多利亚的秘密内衣主打性感时尚与梦幻,维密秀上模特们献上的是一场镶金的“女神”秀。其中传达的是,能穿上维密内衣的女性不仅具有一定经济地位,同时也具有傲人的身体资本。

图/芭莎

可女性的身体似乎成为了一件贴了商标的产品,在通过层层的标准选拔。大胸、翘臀、细腰......淘汰掉大多数人,留下了一小部分人,而观者还在不断发问,你是否合格了?

这种女性形象的单一刻板化造成的现象是,我们通过荧幕上的女性形象来观照现实中的女性,这助长了对女性身体的规训,女性的身体成为能够代表她们主体的符号

靠近刻板标准者被包装为自律、成功、美丽的形象,而对于无法贴近这一标准的普通女性来说,可能伴随的就是身体焦虑和自卑感,许多人甚至用不健康的方式来试图靠近标准美。

CK一贯宣扬多元化的品牌理念,在六月骄傲月开始之前,就签下了来自时尚和演艺界的九位LGBTQ群体的模特,而演员兼模特雅里·琼斯便是其中之一。

如果说CK想要集合这些多元的声音,让各具特色的女性身体在舆论中拥有诉说权利,那么琼斯确实传达了一种积极向上的健康女性形象。她在告诉所有女性,不需要迎合所谓的审美标准,一样可以勇敢展现自我,不管是什么样的身体,都可以穿上舒适大方的内衣

图/PHOSPHENES

而那些嘲讽CK这一行为过于“政治正确”的声音,要表达的意思大概是:这不过是刻意运用弱势群体的身体来表达,完全没有顾及美感。

似乎,“不符合既有的审美观”加上“弱势群体”这样的组合,就足以引起对“政治正确”的批评了,可想一想,我们在这方面已经到了要批评政治正确的地步了吗?我们甚至都未达到理性谈论什么是“正确”的程度。

黑人、跨性别、胖女性,这样的字眼被扣上了“政治正确”的标签,可现实却是,这些女性群体,甚至都不能和我们所认为的“美丽女性”一样平等地出现在舆论中

对那些批评政治正确的人,他们是否甚至连“政治”是什么都不理解,只不过是在为既有的社会和审美秩序被挑战而产生愤慨?

少数群体就应该接受社会既有秩序的标准吗?他们又是否想到,每个人都可能在某一时刻成为少数群体?

公益广告“你永远没办法像她一样” 图/twitter

每一位女性都是一个鲜活独特的个体,运用既有“美丑”的规则来讨论,显然缺乏了对女性更深层次的挖掘,也是将女性的“美”作为规训女性身体的工具。

当我们看到这样一位不迎合传统美的女性模特在公共空间中出现时,讨论不应该局限于身体本身,那样只会陷入到运用被定义的“美”来评论试图解构“美”的怪圈中。

我们更应探讨的是,这种解构与呈现,在当下具有怎样的意义和冲击力?它会只带起一点点资本的浪花,还是能够逐渐推进到社会层面,从而激起对性别话题更深刻的讨论?

 

 

P.S. 本文观点仅代表特约作者个人观点,部分图片来源网络。

发表评论

评论

I simply wanted to develop a small word in order to say thanks to you for some of the nice items you are showing here. My long internet investigation has now been rewarded with excellent information to talk about with my friends. I would assert that many of us visitors are very blessed to be in a fine website with very many awesome professionals with beneficial points. I feel really lucky to have used your entire webpages and look forward to some more pleasurable moments reading here. Thanks once more for a lot of things. stephen curry shoes http://www.stephencurry.us.com
I as well as my guys came reading through the great guidelines located on the website and then then I got an awful suspicion I had not expressed respect to the blog owner for those techniques. All the men are actually for that reason glad to read through them and have in effect really been loving them. I appreciate you for simply being well thoughtful and then for settling on some tremendous guides most people are really eager to discover. Our own honest regret for not saying thanks to you sooner. nike air max http://www.nikeairmax2018.us.com
I together with my guys were studying the great procedures found on your web page while all of the sudden got a horrible suspicion I never thanked the website owner for them. All of the guys had been as a result passionate to see them and have in effect simply been tapping into these things. We appreciate you genuinely really considerate and then for utilizing variety of incredibly good resources most people are really desperate to understand about. My honest apologies for not expressing appreciation to sooner. yeezy boost 350 http://www.yeezysshoes.us.com
I'm also commenting to let you know of the perfect discovery my cousin's girl had visiting your web site. She came to understand lots of issues, including how it is like to have a very effective helping nature to make certain people completely learn various hard to do issues. You truly surpassed visitors' expectations. I appreciate you for displaying such warm and friendly, trusted, revealing not to mention fun guidance on the topic to Kate. supreme clothing http://www.supreme-clothing.us.com
Thanks a lot for giving everyone an extremely splendid opportunity to check tips from this blog. It's always very good plus full of amusement for me personally and my office co-workers to visit the blog minimum thrice weekly to see the new issues you have. And lastly, I am at all times amazed with all the fantastic strategies you give. Certain 4 points on this page are easily the simplest I've ever had. nike air force http://www.nikeairforce1.us.com
I want to show my appreciation to this writer for rescuing me from this type of situation. As a result of exploring throughout the the web and finding concepts that were not productive, I thought my life was over. Existing without the presence of answers to the problems you have fixed all through your good write-up is a critical case, as well as ones which might have in a negative way affected my career if I hadn't noticed your blog. Your actual competence and kindness in playing with all the details was useful. I don't know what I would've done if I had not come across such a point like this. I am able to at this moment look ahead to my future. Thank you so much for your expert and effective help. I will not be reluctant to refer your blog to any individual who requires assistance on this matter. off white nike http://www.off-whiteshoes.us.com
Thanks for your own labor on this site. Ellie enjoys doing investigation and it's easy to see why. Many of us hear all of the compelling medium you present great ideas through the web blog and therefore attract participation from others on this article while my daughter is without a doubt discovering a great deal. Have fun with the rest of the year. You're conducting a wonderful job. nike shoes http://www.nikesneakers.us.com
I intended to send you this little observation in order to give many thanks the moment again over the gorgeous things you've provided here. It is quite particularly generous of you to make freely precisely what numerous people could have offered for sale as an e book to help with making some money on their own, most importantly since you could possibly have done it if you ever desired. These good ideas in addition acted to become fantastic way to realize that most people have a similar dreams much like mine to realize a whole lot more when it comes to this issue. I am certain there are several more enjoyable opportunities ahead for individuals who browse through your site. nike off white http://www.offwhiteshoes.us.com
I wanted to write you this very small remark just to give thanks the moment again with the precious concepts you've documented in this article. It was remarkably generous with you giving unhampered all many individuals could possibly have distributed for an e book to help with making some bucks on their own, precisely since you could possibly have tried it in the event you decided. Those principles additionally worked to be a good way to know that someone else have similar fervor similar to mine to learn whole lot more concerning this condition. Certainly there are a lot more enjoyable opportunities up front for individuals who browse through your blog post. supreme http://www.supremesonlinestore.com
作为一个“普通人”,真的希望大家不要对这样不符合自己审美规则的模特抱有太多恶意。况且感觉模特看起来蛮壮实,也很健康积极呀
I not to mention my guys ended up reviewing the nice advice on your web site and then came up with a horrible suspicion I never expressed respect to the website owner for those secrets. Most of the young men happened to be for this reason glad to learn them and have in effect surely been tapping into them. Many thanks for genuinely well kind and then for deciding upon varieties of fabulous things millions of individuals are really desperate to learn about. Our sincere apologies for not saying thanks to you sooner. lebron 17 http://www.lebron17.us.com
Thanks so much for providing individuals with remarkably spectacular opportunity to check tips from this web site. It can be so enjoyable plus packed with a good time for me personally and my office friends to visit your website minimum three times every week to read the latest things you have. And lastly, I am just certainly fascinated considering the exceptional opinions you serve. Selected two facts in this post are completely the simplest I've ever had. golden goose outlet http://www.golden-goose.us.com
I not to mention my buddies happened to be reviewing the excellent pointers found on the website while unexpectedly got a horrible feeling I had not thanked the site owner for those strategies. All of the young men happened to be for this reason glad to see them and have now sincerely been tapping into them. We appreciate you getting well thoughtful and then for pick out some incredibly good subject matter most people are really eager to discover. Our sincere apologies for not saying thanks to you earlier. golden goose http://www.goldengoose-outlet.us.com
Thank you for your whole efforts on this website. Ellie enjoys setting aside time for investigations and it's really easy to understand why. Many of us learn all relating to the powerful medium you make sensible guides via your web site and as well as welcome response from others on the matter while our favorite girl has been understanding so much. Have fun with the rest of the new year. You're performing a fabulous job. supreme clothing http://www.supremeclothings.us.com
Needed to draft you a very small observation just to say thank you yet again with the pretty tricks you have shown above. This has been quite seriously generous of you to deliver openly all that some people might have sold for an electronic book in order to make some money on their own, primarily considering the fact that you could possibly have done it in the event you desired. Those strategies in addition worked to provide a great way to fully grasp someone else have the same passion really like my own to figure out whole lot more in regard to this condition. I am sure there are several more enjoyable moments up front for people who looked at your site. lebron 15 http://www.lebron15.net
My husband and i ended up being excited when Louis managed to deal with his investigations via the precious recommendations he grabbed using your blog. It is now and again perplexing to simply be giving away key points which others could have been selling. And we all do know we have got the writer to thank for this. The entire illustrations you made, the straightforward site navigation, the friendships you can assist to create - it is everything excellent, and it is making our son and the family understand the situation is brilliant, which is rather indispensable. Thanks for all! balenciaga http://www.balenciagas.us.com
Thanks for your whole efforts on this web site. Kim really likes making time for research and it's easy to understand why. A lot of people notice all concerning the lively tactic you produce useful ideas via this web blog and as well as attract response from people on that article then my princess is always understanding a great deal. Enjoy the remaining portion of the new year. You are always doing a useful job. curry shoes http://www.curry-6.us
I definitely wanted to write down a simple note so as to express gratitude to you for those unique secrets you are placing here. My time-consuming internet research has now been rewarded with reputable suggestions to share with my family members. I would suppose that many of us visitors are rather blessed to live in a superb community with very many special people with insightful methods. I feel quite happy to have discovered your web site and look forward to many more entertaining times reading here. Thanks a lot once again for a lot of things. golden goose sneakers http://www.goldengooseofficial.com
My husband and i were really fulfilled Raymond could conclude his web research out of the ideas he obtained from your very own site. It's not at all simplistic to simply find yourself giving freely secrets which usually some people have been trying to sell. And we consider we now have the writer to appreciate because of that. The specific illustrations you made, the straightforward blog menu, the relationships you can help promote - it's everything incredible, and it's really making our son in addition to our family do think that subject matter is excellent, and that is unbelievably mandatory. Many thanks for everything! cheap jordans http://www.jordanshoes.us

Current URL